ROAP Coaching
ROAP Coaching
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Contact Strength. What it is and how to train it
Have you ever experienced your hand opening up when you hit a hold? We all have - this is contact strength.
The rate of force development (RFD) is crucial in climbing as it is determines if we can apply maximal strength quickly. It is all good having strong fingers, but can you apply it quickly?
This episode looks at what it looks like and how to train it, including looking up the chain.
Please visit our website to get more information: www.roapcoaching.com/
A big thank you to @movementgyms for letting us film in their Rino and Baker locations for this episode!
If you want to know the science behind it all, check out this video from Tyler Nelson: ua-cam.com/video/_NfX-wmi3gs/v-deo.htmlsi=LxjVIXgFV6GG9kB3
✅ For Business Inquiries: robin@roapcoaching.com
=============================
✅ Other Videos You Might Be Interested In Watching:
👉 Learn How To Campus
ua-cam.com/video/JFgnPGGn3Ws/v-deo.html
👉 Want to see the real differences between a pro and V8 climber?
ua-cam.com/video/l6uVLRf7zns/v-deo.html
👉 Make Your Warm-Up Help YOU Climb HARDER (follow-along session)
ua-cam.com/video/BmcQRG1vj-w/v-deo.html
👉 Want to be able to do more pull-ups?
ua-cam.com/video/Hr9ipOxbUtw/v-deo.html
👉 Want more power when you climb?
ua-cam.com/video/yqVRLSqWIFY/v-deo.html
👉 Technique Coaching for beginner-intermediate climbers
ua-cam.com/video/VIn-yo9TeVQ/v-deo.html
🔗Stay Connected With Us.
👉Facebook (Robin O’Leary): web. robinolearycoaching?__tn__=C&_rdc=1&_rdr
👉Instagram (Alex Puccio): alex_puccio89?hl=en
👉Instagram (Robin O’Leary): robinoleary
👉Instagram (ROAP): roap.c
👉Threads (Alex Puccio): www.threads.net/@alex_puccio89
👉Threads(Robin O’Leary):www.threads.net/@robinoleary
👉Twitter (X): alex_puccio?lang=en
👉Website: www.roapcoaching.com/
=============================
✅ About ROAP Coaching.
ROAP Coaching brings Robin O’Leary (RO) and Alex Puccio (AP) together to combine their knowledge so that they can help climbers from around the world achieve their goals, reach their potential, and learn the nuances of climbing, movement, training, and the mind games that make the difference. This channel will share coaching videos and climbing, traveling, and training videos.
For Collaboration and Business inquiries, please use the contact information below:
📩 Email: robin@roapcoaching.com
🔔Unlock Your Climbing Potential! Subscribe for exclusive insights on mastering climbing, training techniques, and the mental game that sets you apart.
www.youtube.com/@roapcoaching917/?sub_confirmation=1
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⚠️DISCLAIMER: We do not accept any liability for any loss or damage incurred from you acting or not acting as a result of watching any of our publications. You acknowledge that you use the information we provide at your own risk. Do your research.
Copyright Notice: This video and our UA-cam channel contain dialogue, music, and images that are the property of ROAP Coaching. You are authorized to share the video link and channel and embed this video in your website or others as long as a link back to our UA-cam channel is provided.
© ROAP Coaching
Переглядів: 11 639

Відео

These tips WILL make you climb harder grades!
Переглядів 38 тис.14 днів тому
Alex is synonymous with climbing some of the hardest boulders in the world. In fact she has climbed more V14s than any other female climber! This is all thanks to projecting - the art of pushing your grade. In this video, Alex shares some useful tips that are very easy to apply to your own sessions. This video is sponsored by @COROSGlobal One of the reasons we wanted to partner with COROS was t...
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Переглядів 16 тис.Місяць тому
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Переглядів 36 тис.2 місяці тому
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What’s the REAL difference between a V8 and V14 climber? Video analysis session!
Переглядів 25 тис.3 місяці тому
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The ONLY Warm-Up You’ll Ever Need!
Переглядів 26 тис.3 місяці тому
To get your COROS watch, go to www.coros.com and use the code 'ROAP' for a free accessory. Go to www.coros.com/stories/athlete-stories/c/structured-warm-ups-for-climbing to read more about our warm-up and to download these sessions straight onto your watch! We've created this workout for three different levels: Beginners (V0-3); training.coros.com/workout-program?programId=458825439935381504&re...
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Переглядів 19 тис.3 місяці тому
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Alex Puccio is making a comeback to comp climbing...on a rope!
Переглядів 28 тис.8 місяців тому
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Переглядів 36 тис.9 місяців тому
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Alex Puccio applies these tips every time she climbs
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Переглядів 40 тис.10 місяців тому
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Are you scared of falling?
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Переглядів 38 тис.Рік тому
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You're going to want to learn how to do this correctly!
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Переглядів 16 тис.Рік тому
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Переглядів 54 тис.Рік тому
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Footwork for Climbing
Переглядів 25 тис.Рік тому
Footwork for Climbing

КОМЕНТАРІ

  • @sosanto20
    @sosanto20 5 годин тому

    Perfect, I'm so grateful.

  • @kaktaktus3546
    @kaktaktus3546 19 годин тому

    Thank You, Alex! This will definitly help me fight my own fears! You’re great woman!!!

  • @mrsteezyoctopus3767
    @mrsteezyoctopus3767 3 дні тому

    10:30

  • @phillippearce9680
    @phillippearce9680 3 дні тому

    👍

  • @BroaderGoat
    @BroaderGoat 3 дні тому

    Wonderful information and explanations as always! But can we take notice of that sick AP tee Robin is wearing and where can I please buy one ROAP???

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 3 дні тому

      Thank you! Hahaha - email clothing@roapcoacing.com 12 left of a 200 ltd edition run

    • @BroaderGoat
      @BroaderGoat 3 дні тому

      @@roapcoaching917 Sweet!

    • @BroaderGoat
      @BroaderGoat 3 дні тому

      @@roapcoaching917 Sweet!

  • @randomhoe40
    @randomhoe40 4 дні тому

    natalia is so cool!

  • @FullSpectrumClimbing
    @FullSpectrumClimbing 4 дні тому

    Good stuff!

  • @nieziemskim
    @nieziemskim 5 днів тому

    Perfect timing, I recently met with with term 'contact strength' and was wondering what is it and how to train it. Thanks!

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 5 днів тому

      That IS good timing! ;) Excellent, well I hope you find it useful and good luck with your training. Let us know how you get on!

  • @normanquednau
    @normanquednau 6 днів тому

    It is so cool how the principles from martial arts that I learn apply alomst 100% to climbing: in Gong Fu the initial stage of developing power is structure (the ability of the body to be one connected unit, from head to toes). What I noticed in the training section of this cool video ist the application of isometrics: Isomteric holds on the bar with the shoulders, hangs on the fingerboard, etc. Did you know that Bruce Lee applied extensively isometrics in his training? Cheers to you both, mates. My favourite climbing YT channel by far❤

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 5 днів тому

      Ahhh, we love your references to MA! Isometric training is crucial for stability and strength - from here you can learn to "be like water"! ;)

  • @Vulkyirom
    @Vulkyirom 6 днів тому

    enlightening, good explanations and examples, thanks!

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 5 днів тому

      Excellent news, we appreciate your feedback! Thanks for your support

  • @Megiago
    @Megiago 6 днів тому

    This is becoming one of my favorite climbing channels, great content!

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 5 днів тому

      Wow, high praise - we appreciate it. We are always open to ideas too - so if you have any content you want to see, let us know!

  • @lukesutherland6285
    @lukesutherland6285 6 днів тому

    Love these videos but you don't have to keep saying "no one else is talking about this," or "something I haven't heard much." I find these videos really helpful though

    • @urabagofcells2228
      @urabagofcells2228 6 днів тому

      I agree! and what could be interesting is a dedicated video to hear from alex's point of view (and other pro women climbers?) the gap between convos that happen between professional climbers and what convos are happening on youtube! Especially from her unique place as representing both.

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 5 днів тому

      Thanks for the feedback. We only said it as it was true and an important point to make is CS up the chain.

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 5 днів тому

      Thank for this - this is Alex responding to you. I'd love for you to explain that in a little more detail if that's OK - so I understand it fully. i.e. what professional female athletes discuss in private about training? Thanks for the feedback.

    • @tommeyer3871
      @tommeyer3871 3 дні тому

      I know what you mean, but as long as its honestly true I feel like prefacing a statement with these words holds some values. As in „here comes an interesting NEW bit of information that might take your brain more time to process“

  • @homemsapo
    @homemsapo 6 днів тому

    If you had a Members area with detailed training protocolls I Would love to support

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 5 днів тому

      Appreciate it. It is certainly something on our radar. Our immediate goal is to consistently put out one video a week as well as share an educational reel on instagram every 2 or 3 days. We also have a very exciting product in development, which will help us achieve this member feature with more success. So, watch this space and we appreciate your support!

    • @VertPerformance
      @VertPerformance 5 днів тому

      👀

  • @brandonchu6820
    @brandonchu6820 6 днів тому

    how would you suggest someone to train contact strength when they have existing wrist problems such as RSI? I see you also have your wrist taped when you climb; is it long running wrist complication, or recent? and how do you get around training without putting extra stress on the affected wrist? As usual, keep up the banger content!

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 5 днів тому

      Great question. Yes, Robin tweaked his wrist on an indoor dyne, so is being careful with some of his sessions. Board climbing can aggravate the wrist due to the shock-loading and dynamic climbing - you are right in that CS training can do the same. If you have a TFCC issue, then firstly, ask your Physio for expert advice. Beyond that, tape and ensure that the exercise is not causing pain during and then also the morning after. IF you are, then it's certainly worth waiting a little. The hangboard exercise and jump/catching exercises could be good alternatives in the meantime as it is all measurable and adjustable. i.e. you can work on a lower RPE - say 6/10 rather than 9 or 10/10. Does that make sense?

  • @GucciFeet
    @GucciFeet 6 днів тому

    For the Tindeq part on RFD can you explain how to read the results i get really weird results like 757kg/s RFD 2080 (R) and 555 RFD 2080 (L) on an uneven 25mm edge. That cant be possible right?

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 5 днів тому

      Yeah, good question as it is slightly confusing. It breaks down essentially the KG or lbs per second, so your reading of 757kg/s shows the output in relation to time. The key, in our opinion, is that you are looking at your total output (overall kg) and the time it took to achieve it. You can ignore the rest! ;)

  • @jennifercasey7821
    @jennifercasey7821 6 днів тому

    Another timely coaching video! I have been using your warm up routine since you posted it 3 months ago and I don't plan on chainging. I have seen definite improvement and have gone up a step with the resistance band. Can't wait to implement contact strength training as well. Thank you for continuing to put out solid, quality training videos.

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 5 днів тому

      Ahh, great to hear, thank you. That warm-up is one that you genuinely can use forever and it becomes a tool in order to help you perform. This is certainly an addition to that video - as well as obviously climbing to gain the contact strength too!

  • @scottmason1937
    @scottmason1937 6 днів тому

    Great, video! Just wanted to ask how often would you say to project? I love the idea but then the gym sets a new area so off I go! 😅 I normally climb 3 times a week. Any suggestions gratefully received 👍

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 5 днів тому

      Good question and it really depends on skill level (experience) as well as goals. If you are pre-season - then volume is better, but if you are in a project/strength phase then 2-3 times a week (3 being ideal as long as you are having one session a week that is focused on movement and volume).

    • @scottmason1937
      @scottmason1937 5 днів тому

      @roapcoaching917 that's great thank you for replying 👍

  • @edwarddannenberg5084
    @edwarddannenberg5084 6 днів тому

    Great video and great execcieses, thank you!

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 5 днів тому

      Excellent, glad you liked it! Thanks for watching too!

  • @briseboy
    @briseboy 6 днів тому

    We see the immediate contact strength variation easily, when watching Janja Garnbret and a very few others who have developed this ATTENTIONAL brain skill!

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 5 днів тому

      Absolutely - it is a very trained aspect that firstly builds strength, then contact strength, then accuracy and first time touch! Impressive seeing her do this on World Cup routes! Thanks for sharing and watching!

  • @J_c40rl3y
    @J_c40rl3y 6 днів тому

    Great video, look forward to trying these exercises out. Thanks

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 5 днів тому

      Excellent, let us know how you get on! Thanks for watching

  • @p3scful
    @p3scful 6 днів тому

    Where can i buy the shirt super nice photo i really want it. !!

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 5 днів тому

      Email clothing@roapcoaching.com - it is a ltd edition run of 200 and I believe there are 18 left.

  • @VertPerformance
    @VertPerformance 6 днів тому

    Practical, useful, educational, approachable. Thanks for putting this out!

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 5 днів тому

      Thank you Casey! Looking forward to creating content with you soon!

  • @brendanacord
    @brendanacord 7 днів тому

    14:14 you almost said my favorite point: You can’t have good days without bad days, unless you’re climbing well below your limit - so embrace the days where things don’t click, means you’re closer to having a peak session.

  • @AmroNaddy
    @AmroNaddy 8 днів тому

    Super usedul

  • @waveexistence3512
    @waveexistence3512 9 днів тому

    I’m about to start rock climbing so I can take my upper body to the next level 🔥

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 8 днів тому

      It will genuinely happen if you climb a few times a week!

  • @user-ou8zg5or3p
    @user-ou8zg5or3p 11 днів тому

    Alex Puccio this is really important for you please wear a full arm t-shirt if you are going out. 🥲 Because you are gonna make many men jealous and inferior by your arms.

  • @ninocrudele
    @ninocrudele 11 днів тому

    Fantastic video explaining such complex concept in very clear way! Subscribed!

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 10 днів тому

      Thank you so much for watching and joining us! Psyched that you enjoyed it!

  • @CrispyCrimpsClimbing
    @CrispyCrimpsClimbing 12 днів тому

    Ego and brushing were the biggest ones for me. Brushing can turn a slopper from horrible to great or a scary volume to a secure one. Ego is something I still struggle with, when i change gyms or go outdoors I always have a high expectation to send but the pressure doesnt help

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 10 днів тому

      Absolutely. Brushing is just something many climbers don't do. Obviously on rock it is more common, but indoors, people just don't bother unless it's their project. This culture, unfortunately, passes on to the training boards. Ego is also obviously the biggest stopper in progression! Thanks for sharing and for watching!

  • @jjimena263
    @jjimena263 13 днів тому

    WHOAHH, most impressive seeing the results with Braden. I am so thankful for this in-depth campus board guide. Most of the other UA-cam vids seem to only give what exercises to do and so this vid is a godsent!!!

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 13 днів тому

      Ahh, excellent - we've had some really good feedback and results from this one (in terms of people seeing gains). It has helped V3 and V15 climbers alike! Let us know how you get on? Also, if you want other tutorial videos - let us know too! Thanks for your support.

  • @DAJ2000
    @DAJ2000 13 днів тому

    Thank you so much for this video. I've been climbing for 6 months and watch a lot of climbing videos. But this has been by far the most helpful. I love you explained AND demonstrated both the most efficient as well as the least efficient techniques. And then isolated the moves to explain it further.

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 13 днів тому

      Excellent news - glad it has been helpful. Yes, there are a lot of drill videos out there (which we will also address shortly), but this looks at practical movement. Hips are discussed a lot - "keep them close" etc, but never about generating momentum. Let us know how you get on with applying this one! Thanks for watching!

  • @normanquednau
    @normanquednau 14 днів тому

    Cool! Its the principle of martial arts.Due to my golfers elbow, I cant pull with my arms very strongly; so using my feet, legs and hips more. Its exactly that

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 13 днів тому

      Exactly that - well, head controls the body, but otherwise - centre of gravity, using momentum etc. Yes, sometimes injuries c a create a blessing in disguise. Really try to focus on optimal directional force through the holds, and make the lower body generate the momentum! Thanks for sharing and watching!

    • @normanquednau
      @normanquednau 13 днів тому

      If you dont mind, I share why I started climbing: I come from traditional chinese martial arts. Structure and grounding are the most important principles of power generation, hips are the engine and the arms are just transmission chords, they stay most of the time "empty". You basically hit the target with the floor, if that makes sense😊. So, I went to the boulder gym wanting to improve pulling and grip strength. Pulling because in Kung Fu you grab and pull as well; and here I am, literally "hooked" to bouldering! Cheers to you both, hoping to attend a retreat soon😊... first fixing that elbow

  • @sarazzielh6518
    @sarazzielh6518 14 днів тому

    In the first 3 months of this year I had to slow because of a injury and after starting to slowly go up to my grade that i did before, I had a big improvement and jumped into the next grade So I'll do a endurence month from time to time

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 13 днів тому

      Endurance months/phases are really important. A lot of our plans for new clients start in this way as many people don't have capacity. Capacity and strength can also be trained simultaneous (different sessions) as they are polar opposites. Short and quality sessions (high intensity) and then a high volume/low intensity session - with appropriate rests involved of course. Thanks for sharing and good luck with your progress!

  • @michaelcorleone7598
    @michaelcorleone7598 14 днів тому

    Bruh she’s built like a tank 💪

  • @lucasmulvehill6300
    @lucasmulvehill6300 15 днів тому

    I remember a long time ago this cute chick was at the PCA comp in salt lake, and she was crushing it, and I thought maybe but didn’t realize that she was going to be the GOAT of female bouldering, pretty awesome stuff

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 14 днів тому

      🥰 ☺️ 😊 thank you! A long time ago now, but I remember it well!! Looking forward to getting back into that shape! A new chapter (pregnancy), means it will have to wait a little. But psyched for v15 and 5.15! ;) Thanks for the kind words, made me smile!

  • @AlexMaiaVictoria
    @AlexMaiaVictoria 16 днів тому

    Thank you, Alex! You guys produce fantastic videos. Straight o the point! I DO climb better partially because of your channel. And I do recommend it to all my buddies. Gruß aus Österreich :)

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 15 днів тому

      Thank you so much! We need and appreciate viewers like you! 😊 More coming your way! Keep trying hard and having fun!

  • @simeoncheshmedjiev-shraik4719
    @simeoncheshmedjiev-shraik4719 16 днів тому

    Super cool video, thank you! Please, do more of these. :)

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 15 днів тому

      Thank you so much! Yes, more coming your way. Filmed today, filming tomo for Sunday release hopefully!

  • @larryseibold4287
    @larryseibold4287 16 днів тому

    Power spotting and practice falling as you go up are great tips. Better to be a V10 faller / V6 climber than a V10 climber but only a V6 faller, if that makes sense long term.

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 15 днів тому

      Absolutely!! Haha, I think I am a v6 faller! There are some ninja cars out there!!!

  • @JoMoClimber
    @JoMoClimber 16 днів тому

    Great advice, Robin and Alex. I sport climb and, when on top rope, I have begun to ask my belay partner to lower me to crux sections so that I can try and work through the moves. 👍

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 15 днів тому

      Exactly that!! Dissecting the moves 1 by 1 will allow you to perfect the movement and climb a lot(!) harder. Robin’s dad climbed 8a+/13c at 65 by learning the moves of projects. Allows you to push yourself to the limit!

  • @shayneclimbsrocks09
    @shayneclimbsrocks09 17 днів тому

    movement the hill 👀👀👀 i saw you at movement grapevine around that time all the team kids were talking about you being there😂

  • @RaIceManCo
    @RaIceManCo 17 днів тому

    "You got the neck" 😂😂😂

  • @ende421
    @ende421 19 днів тому

    Good tips! Thanks! Another (obvious) one: projecting is much more fun if you're not alone.

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 18 днів тому

      Too true!!! Especially if your “friends” are on the same climb and similar ability!

  • @dannythwaites1318
    @dannythwaites1318 19 днів тому

    Robins T shirt is awesome!

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 18 днів тому

      Haha, it’s hilarious! I think only a few remain now

  • @FlashUltra_
    @FlashUltra_ 19 днів тому

    Power spotters are everything.

  • @garywheaton7112
    @garywheaton7112 19 днів тому

    I’ve just gotta have that white Tee that Robin is wearing!!

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 19 днів тому

      If you’re in the first 200, you’ve got one!!!

    • @garywheaton7112
      @garywheaton7112 16 днів тому

      When do we find out? The suspense is killing me!

  •  19 днів тому

    thank you very much for your content. I love the fact that each step, each reflection is detailed. for a beginner like me this is what allows me real compression and real theoretical learning initially which I can then implement during my sessions. 👏👏👏👍

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 18 днів тому

      Excellent, glad you liked it! We tried to condense it a little to make it a bit more bite sized too! Thanks for watching

  • @room_for_activities
    @room_for_activities 19 днів тому

    Grrrrrr 🤘

  • @joshuawhere
    @joshuawhere 20 днів тому

    So was that toe hook just a red herring or what?

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 18 днів тому

      Good Q!? I think they set it for the “average height” climber (5”6-5”9) and it didn’t work for neither Robin (too scrunched) nor me (as you saw).

  • @jjimena263
    @jjimena263 20 днів тому

    Another banger ep!!! Looking forward for more 💪

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 19 днів тому

      Mega! Thank you so much! Thanks for watching!

  • @unvexis
    @unvexis 20 днів тому

    I really need to brush more. A power spotter would also be nice. I have sent zero X+2s ever, where X is my guaranteed flash grade. Despite spending 6 weeks on each project, falling many dozens of times and ultimately failing every one, the thing that keeps me going is knowing that progress is measured in years, not months. The gaps between grades are huge. Thanks for the video.

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 19 днів тому

      For sure! Brushing is key but power-spotting is equally important. If you’re genuinely trying hard climbs (for you), learning the positions and taking weight off is the way! Thanks for watching

    • @slapthesloper
      @slapthesloper 15 днів тому

      If you’re flashing Vx most of the time Vx+2 should be done in one session and Vx+4 would be a multi week project so definitely have a lot of low hanging progress to make

  • @billking8843
    @billking8843 20 днів тому

    I had years and years of just pottering around the easy stuff at the gym. Unsurprisingly, I got bored, then a friend ordered me to project. Much more fun now that I am challenging myself and, despite my fears, my sketchy shoulder has been completely fine.

    • @roapcoaching917
      @roapcoaching917 18 днів тому

      Glad you got shown the way…fun to “potter” and nice when you go to new gyms, but not the way to see bigger gains!